More Than a Day Trip: My Phi Phi
- Trine Sirnes
- 31. jan.
- 4 min lesing
Oppdatert: 3. feb.
At the risk of ruining what felt like my own little paradise: I have completely fallen in love with the Phi Phi Islands. And I simply can’t help myself—I have to share a bit about them.
Kaotic tourist trap?
Most people know Koh Phi Phi Don as a hectic, overcrowded place, often experienced during a few rushed hours on a day trip. And yes—it is overwhelming to step off the ferry into a swirl of large crowds, hotel representatives holding signs, and people offering longtail boat tours to the most famous sights. A little further in, you’ll find the main street, built almost entirely around this day-tourism economy.
But Koh Phi Phi Don has so much more to offer.
The island consists of two mountainous areas connected by a low-lying strip of land, with the famous long beaches on both sides. The eastern part of this strip is the main hub, where you’ll find shops, restaurants, tattoo studios, bars, and hostels. But the further you move away from the main street and into the core, the more local, authentic, and calm it becomes.
The two beaches on either side are very different. Ton Sai Beach is relatively calm apart from the pir area. On the opposite side lies Loh Dalum Beach—the party beach—where there’s music and nightlife every day.
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Peacefull surroundings - everything within reach
But the real gems appear once you step just slightly away from this central strip. Here you’ll find much quieter areas with cleaner beaches, better—and often more affordable—food, and hotels and hostels where peace and quiet are part of the experience.
Personally, I’m not a big fan of resorts that are completely cut off from everyday life, though those do exist here as well. Staying there usually means a 20–40 minute walk or a longtail boat ride to reach anything else.
That said, there are wonderful places just a ten-minute walk from the center where you still get the beach almost to yourself — especially before 11AM and after 5AM — and where the only sounds around you are exotic animal calls and the sound of the sea.
Truly the best of both worlds.
I chose to stay for two weeks—quite possibly the most enjoyable vacation I can remember. With me were my daughter Nemi (21) and her boyfriend Emil (23). I’m 60 myself, so our days naturally included activities suited to different ages. The two younger ones spent a couple of days in Phuket to experience that as well, but otherwise we stayed on the island.
Morning trips, partyboat and Muay Thai
Many of our days began with early morning walks, either together or alone. We explored the interior of the eastern hillside—viewpoints, trails, and quiet paths—and encountered wildlife along the way: monkeys, eagles, cows, chickens, spiders, centipedes, and even a snake. And mosquitoes. Always mosquitoes in the shadow areas.
To experience something a bit different—and to tick off some of the classic tourist highlights—we joined a day trip with The Pirate Boat. The tour runs from around noon until 7 p.m. and includes stops at Monkey Beach, Maya Bay, and Pileh Lagoon. It also features snorkeling, swimming, kayaking, food, a bar, dancing, music, sunset views, pirates, and a great atmosphere overall. The crew is made up of people from several countries and are genuinely friendly and inclusive. Highly recommended—as long as you’re okay with the music being a bit loud.
Muay Thai is something you really should experience, and you can do so most evenings at Reggae Bar. It’s a lively mix of tourists volunteering for matches—often with limited experience but plenty of enthusiasm—and professional local fighters competing in serious bouts. There’s a lot of humor, genuine excitement, and high energy throughout the night. Don’t miss it.
Find your own hidden gems
When it comes to getting around, there’s no shortage of advice. We wanted to snorkel and already had some experience from earlier trips to Thailand. So we simply approached the first longtail boat we saw, had a friendly negotiation, and agreed on a good price to take us exactly where we wanted to go. Most boats provide masks, snorkels, and fins at no extra cost.
Personally, I have no need for a “private luxury boat” with extra cushions and a fruit platter that takes you to the same crowded spots as everyone else. Instead, check a map, read a bit online, and seek out your own hidden gems.
Foodies on tour!
We’re a food-loving group, so every day also included a small quest for great meals—preferably as authentic Thai as possible. And there’s plenty of it.
We returned several times to Khun Va Thai Cuisine and to the Thai market area not far from the ferry pier. We also enjoyed excellent meals at the Japanese restaurant P.P. Wang Ta Fu. For something fresher and on the healthier side, the smoothies at Patcharee were a favorite.
Beaches enough for everyone
We also found our own little beach—with drinks, snacks, and a massage spot under the shade. A quiet, peaceful place with such warm and welcoming people that we kept coming back, day after day.
How to get to Phi Phi
We flew with Thai Airways, which was a very pleasant experience. Even in economy class, both food and drinks are included, and the cabin crew are consistently friendly and helpful.
To get to The Phi Phi Island we had to first go to Bankok, then to Krabi, both by air. Then taxi to the pir and a two hour ferry trip to the island. There are not that many ferries, and personally I will not go by speedboat (too many accidents and a bumpy and unpleasant ride). Remember, there are no ferries going from the mainland or Phuket after 3 AM. You can book and see the times here.
We could probably have done more, but we got busy with beach life, cats and food.
The rest have to wait for next time.
Because there will most certainly be a next trip—back to exactly this place. Soon!
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