Cinque Terre in July – Without the Crowds or the Chaos? Yes, Please!

Norwegian version here

Tenåringen med ryggen til, på en typisk sen ettermiddag på moloen i Vernazza.

Cinque Terre in the middle of summer? Yikes, some might say. Sweltering heat, crowds shuffling through narrow streets, queues on the hiking trails, overpriced gelato… You’ve heard it. So have I. And yet – I keep going back. In July. And loving every minute.

How? Let me share a few not-so-secret secrets.

Stay in the Towns – Not on the Tracks

First rule: Stay in one of the five towns. My favorite is Vernazza – relaxed, unfussy, and full of character. It feels like a real village (because it is), with a rhythm of its own.

Vernazza square has a great athmosfare - and fantastic food!

Mellom tog og ferge – og et lite triks

Before 11 AM and after 5 PM, Vernazza is a sleepy, sun-kissed gem. Locals and laid-back backpackers rule the streets. You’ll find room at the restaurants without wrestling for it. Down by the harbor, kids splash in the water while families and couples gather to watch the sunset over the sea. It’s pure magic.

The “Rush Hours” – and a Simple Hack

Between 11 and 17, waves of day-trippers roll in – by train from one end of town and ferry from the other. If you’re staying locally, you’ve got options: hit the beach, take a siesta, or stroll up past the train station, where you'll find quiet cafés the day tourists never discover.

Tip: Il Pirata, past the rails.

The Famous Trails – Without the Sizzle or the Swarms

Ah yes, the trails. Those iconic paths that wind between the towns – steep, stony, stunning. Most tourists attempt them in peak heat, sweating through crowds and switchbacks. Frankly, I wouldn’t wish that on anyone.

Between Vernazza and Corniglia, viewing Corniglia.

Here’s what I do: I hike at dawn. The air is cool, the light is golden, and the sea is glassy. I have the trail to myself and the scent of rosemary, lemons, olives, and salt air for company.

When I reach the next town, I reward myself with a hearty breakfast and stroll back before the crowds are even awake.

Beyond the Big Five

Want something even quieter? Head uphill. Above the towns lie tiny villages, ancient churches, vineyards and monasteries, clinging to the cliffs. You’ll hike through lemon groves and olive orchards, with cicadas singing and views that make your jaw drop (and your legs ache – in a good way).

So yes – Cinque Terre in peak season works. Just get up early, slow down, and go local.

Useful tips:

🚆 Trains run frequently through tunnels between the towns. It’s smart to download the Trenit app – it works much like Norway’s Vy app and gives you real-time train schedules.

🌐 All sorts of helpful info about the region can be found here. Important to note:

🛤️ There’s a fee to access the hiking trails, but there is a special pass available.

🎟️ You can also buy a combined pass that gives you both unlimited train travel and access to the trails for a set number of days.

🔼 Stairs: Keep in mind that these are towns built on steep hillsides, with plenty of stairs — the better the view, the more stairs to climb. I personally travel with a cabin-sized suitcase that rolls easily and is light enough to carry. A backpack or other luggage that’s easy to haul up and down stairs can be a big advantage.

🥾 Footwear: You can actually be fined for walking the trails between the villages without proper footwear. Open-toed sandals, flip-flops and the like should be avoided. I’ve used sturdy trekking sandals with closed toes, which worked very well.

How to get to Cinque Terre:

✈️ The shortest route: Fly to Pisa, take a train to La Spezia (40 minutes to 1.5 hours), then another train from La Spezia to Cinque Terre (about 20 minutes).

✈️ Alternatively, fly to Milan/Bergamo and enjoy a scenic 3–4 hour train ride through stunning landscapes – worth the journey!

🚗 Cinque Terre is car-free. You can drive to the outskirts, but parking is very limited, and honestly – it’s much better without a car.